Good Fortune & Great Sights in Aizu

Posted on 09/28/2021 Last updated on 11/05/2021

Aizuwakamatsu, the Samurai city. When you walk around the small city, you can see its retention of history and what used to be the former castle town of the Aizu domain. From the red tiled roof of Tsuruga Castle, the Aizu festival, or even the Nishin-kan, a former reputable samurai school of the Edo period, one can capture a glimpse of the samurai spirit alive and well.

But did you know that this area was also once called Buddhist Capital Aizu? Aizu was one of the first areas in Tohoku where Buddhism flourished leaving behind many statues and temples since the Heian period (794 AD~1185 AD).

One can gain a sense of spirituality and discover the natural beauty that can be found in and around Aizu through the Aizu 33 Kannon pilgrimage.

The Aizu 33 Kannons are generally statues of the 33 images of the goddess of compassion and mercy. However, these Kannons can range from stone statues in mountains, to enshrined Japan National Treasures. The pilgrimage to these 33 Kannons was established by Hoshina Masayuki back in the 17th century, and made popular through improvement of roads and inns in the area around the Kannons.

This route is still popular with the Aizu locals to this day for not just spiritual purposes, but also the beautiful scenery, temples and statues. It is also popular to partake in the local delicacies and hot springs nearby in some of the old towns and villages surrounding the Kannons.

Don’t be fooled into thinking that there are only 33 Kannons in the area though. There are in fact more than that which are located as far as the lake side town of Inawashiro, the northern city of Kitakata, or the southern small town of Minamiaizu.

The Aizu pilgrimage in a way has recently had a more relaxed and leisurely nature as compared with other pilgrimages in Japan. Whether it’s a simple singular visit to appreciate views and peacefulness, or even spending a whole couple of months visiting all sites, like the people of old Aizu to gain good fortune.

If you are the latter, many of the shrines are widely spread out, and it can be daunting to try and link all 33 Kannon in a short period of time. The shortest amount of time as it seems would be 2 days by bicycle.

Guided tours are also available for a premium price. If you lack the time and still think a pilgrimage is of interest, a visit to the Sazaedo is the answer. The Sazaedo is a temple with a double helix structure, the last of its kind. It houses all 33 images of Kannon within the building and is said to have the same benefits as visiting all 33 Aizu Kannon. Thus, if good fortune is what you seek, then you’re not out of luck.

The true value of visiting even one of these places I feel though is the low-key atmosphere and great views that help sooth the mind and heart. Upon my travels in Aizuwakamatsu, I myself had unknowingly stumbled upon some of the Kannons, during my search for a place to collect my thoughts.

One example was the Takizawa Kannon (Pictured below). It is a shrine tucked away in the mountains about a 30-minute walkaway from Iimoriyama. It starts with a stair leading down pathway flanked by numerous flags before making it to the main shrine area.

Beside the shrine is the Shiraito waterfalls in the background which give the area an aura of tranquility as you take in the sounds of running water and the mountain greenery. I had spent 2 hours just sitting, watching and listening to the sounds of nature without a single soul passing by. It was very healing in its own way.

I have also visited the Sakudari Kannon (pictured above to the right) after a leisurely bike ride, which features a temple partially built inside a mountain and also boasts a great vista overlooking the Aizuwakamatsu area.

The 33 Aizu Kannons feature some of the more stunning landscapes of Aizu. From waterfalls, forests, mountain vistas, to temple caves, the visits are worthwhile. If you find yourself in the Aizu area, looking for adventure, a quiet place, or something to do while you walk about the older parts, the Aizu Kannons are for you. Whether your goal is to visit all 33, or to truly enjoy just one, good fortune and good views are waiting for you anytime.

Your next adventure could take you to Aizuwakamatsu not just to visit, but to live and work there! For more information, read all about being an ALT!

Photo credits:

Top photo: Shino on Unsplash

Additional images for this article were provided by the original author, used with permission