Exploring Zenkoji Temple

Posted on 11/21/2023 Last updated on 03/30/2024

A Journey into Japan’s Spiritual Heart in Nagano City

One of the things I was excited about living in Japan is the opportunity to visit shrines and temples. I’ve always been captivated by Japan’s unique architecture and its rich spiritual beliefs and this excitement drove me to finally come here and immerse myself in their culture.

Among the various shrines and temples I have had the chance to visit in my first two months here, Zenkoji Temple truly stands out. Zenkoji Temple, also known simply as Zenkoji, holds a special place as one of Japan’s most significant and revered Buddhist temples, with a history spanning over 1,400 years. Its founding dates back to the 7th century, making it not only Japan’s oldest temple but also one of its most historically important. Zenkoji Temple is nestled in the heart of Nagano City, within Nagano Prefecture.

As an Assistant Language Teacher (ALT), I also get to enjoy a summer break, which provides the perfect opportunity to explore Japan in-depth, unless I have coaching schedules for speech contests requested by my schools. Fortunately, I only had a few such requests, which allowed me to say yes to a good Japanese friend who had invited me to her place in Nagano.

Living in the Kanto area means residing in the bustling city-side of Japan, surrounded by tall buildings, various transportation options such as trains, monorails, and buses. It’s the epitome of urban life. Venturing to Nagano in the Chubu region, however, was a refreshing change. My journey began at Tokyo Station, where I boarded a train bound for Shinjuku Station. From there, I caught a limited express train headed to Chino in Nagano, where a good Japanese friend of mine awaited me.

The fare from Tokyo to Chino was approximately 5000 yen. Let me tell you, the two-hour train ride was worth every minute. Leaving the Kanto region behind, I was greeted by breathtaking natural scenery, with mountains and lush greens all around. The serene landscapes along the way felt like something out of a Studio Ghibli movie, as I transitioned from the city to the countryside.

My friend knew how much I like to go to shrines and temples, that is why Zenkoji was on top of the itinerary the moment I got off the train. The whole area of Zenkoji was massive with a lot of halls you can visit. The main hall, usually called “Hondo”, was the first place we went into and taking pictures or videos were strongly prohibited. It was so huge and it houses the relic of a wooden statue of Amida Buddha. We paid a ticket of around 600 yen each to get to experience praying to the center of the main hall and experience the underground passage tour called “okaidan-meguri (お戒壇巡り)” in Japanese.

I was totally surprised about the underground passage tour because it was the darkest place, literally pitch dark, I have ever been in my entire life. It was underneath the Hondo and it is said that it is the closest you can get to the wooden statue of Amida Buddha. We were told that the “key to paradise” which is our objective of finding as we go through the dark passage, was right under the Buddha statue.

So, if you get to touch the key, then more likely you’re very near the wooden statue. And honestly, I didn’t even know if I was able to touch the key because the fear of being inside a small and dark passageway consumed me so much that I was internally freaking out but of course it was worth the experience.

We visited the Zenkoji History Museum hall as well which houses a lot of relics, artifacts that simply brings you back the history of the temple. It shows the rich culture of the people that surrounds Zenkoji and how the temple became a sanctuary of the believers and the people in general. Last year, the temple held the ‘Zenko-ji Maedaichi Honzon Gokaicho’ or more simply, the ‘Gokaicho’, which celebrates the history and heritage of Zenko-ji. They hold it every six or seven years and it’s like a whole month event but after the pandemic hit, last year’s Gokaicho was held for more than over a month which drew millions of visitors and pilgrims.

Walking around the vicinity of the temple, it made my heart appreciate the beauty of their spiritual belief, rich culture and love for nature. Interestingly, beyond the entrance of the temple, we found a very good Matcha house in the area and it offers a really good tasting matcha latte, matcha shaved ice and matcha ice cream. It’s a matcha heaven if you like matcha like me. It was my first time to see a Starbucks shop where the exterior design is not at all their usual green-themed walls. The exterior matches the environment surrounding the temple. And as a Sumikko Gurashi lover, I also found an exclusive shop near the temple where they sell goods that are exclusive and can be found only in Zenkoji. I did not miss buying a small souvenir from there too.

In conclusion, if you want to feel a sense of peace and reverence and if you like shrines and temples like me, you should not miss out on going to Zenkoji Temple in Nagano City. The place is a testament to the legacy of Japan’s rich spiritual heritage and I carried a lot of memories of the temple’s magnificent architecture. Zenkoji Temple left a beautiful and lasting impression on my heart as it allows me to feel peace and serenity in just a short period of time.